Modus operandi : un estudio estético-político sobre la Moda y su relación con el cuerpo en la contemporaneidad


Ludueña Romandini, Fabián
Borisonik, Hernán Gabriel

Temporal Coverage





285 p.


Atribución-NoComercial-SinDerivadas 2.0 Genérica (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)






In this thesis we study the different contemporary Fashion practices in relation to the body, from an aesthetic and a political perspective. Our hypothesis is that during the past two decades, the perception has changed qualitatively and requires redefining the Fashion concept. As we see it, Fashion no longer seeks to change body appearance using external objects, but aims at changing the body itself. In contrast with past eras, Fashion now understands the body as a dress and seeks to modify it using specific dressmaking and cut patterns instead of only dressing it.

Dresses are no longer used to shape the silhouette but the body is the object of design and intervention. The body is no longer the object to be dressed but it is the dress itself and that is why the Fashion politics concept needs to be reinvented.

We believe that when the body becomes the object of design a continuous renewal dynamics takes place, given the connection between science and technology as established by Fashion. This all belongs in the appearance and dressing industry. In other words, the modus operandi remains the same, but its object has changed. Because of Fashion, the body is now demanding continuous renewal, the stimulus that drives Fashion.

This thesis focuses on the transition of Fashion’s object. We consider this transition is in direct relation with a paradigm change, in a new era that seems to be cross-wise relating technology, science, medicine and the mass communication media, as well as the new social media. Such change seems to be boosted by a series of debates related to life and death, interconnecting different knowledge and powers that consider the body as their privileged object. So, we have purported to investigate practices that make up Fashion, considering the Fashion-body relation contributes directly to building and conducting social and individual subjectivity, as well as a contemporary morale that legitimates certain practices that were not thought of or approved in the past.

On these grounds, stimulated by the profusion of practices, perception and reflection and discourse related to changing the body appearance, from a cross-wise perspective, the corpus of this work allows us to observe phenomena from diverse areas such as design, art, the mass media, shows, health and cosmetic-related social practices, medicine, science and technology, among others. These make up different “devices”, in the Foucauldian sense, that enable and change the body appearance from diverse areas. In turn, despite how diverse such corpus is, we delimited our study to the 1992-20162 period, to approach the boom of the phenomenon. In these varied practices, we found and identified the strategies, operations and incidents that have taken place in and in relation to Fashion when changing its object and its own definition.

The diversity of the corpus is consistent with our concept of Fashion that cannot be defined only by the clothing and design industry practices, but must be extended to art, the mass media, shows and everyday life. It is these dynamic contexts instead of the traditional that we are interested in carrying out our study. For this reason, it has been essential to rethink the concept in relation with consumer practices that, to some extent, define its main aesthetic and political dimensions. The thesis concludes that Fashion in contemporary times has redefined its own concept causing its sensitive aspect -that is, the aestheticpolitical dimension- to change by taking the body as an object of design.

Título obtenido

Doctora de la Universidad de Buenos Aires en Ciencias Sociales

Institución otorgante

Universidad de Buenos Aires. Facultad de Ciencias Sociales

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